Most people buy a torch on one number: lumens. It is the biggest number on the box, so it wins. It is also the least useful number on its own.
Lumens: how much light comes out
Lumens measure total light output. More lumens means more light, spread wherever the reflector sends it.
- Under 100 lumens is close work. Reading, switchboards, finding a keyhole. See the T5s penlight.
- 300 to 600 lumens lights a room, a campsite or a backyard.
- 1000 lumens and up lights a paddock. See the MH12 or the 1800 lumen MH23.
Throw: how far the beam reaches
Beam distance is the number that tells you whether you will see the far fence. It is measured to the ANSI FL1 standard: the distance at which the beam still gives about the light of a full moon (0.25 lux).
Two torches with the same lumens can have very different throw. The MH12 and the MT40GT both make 1000 lumens. The MH12 reaches 232 metres. The MT40GT reaches 618 metres, because a bigger reflector squeezes the same light into a tighter beam.
- Wide beam (flood) for work up close, walking and camp.
- Tight beam (throw) for spotting, search and open water.
Runtime: how long it lasts
The lumen figure on the box is the top mode. Run any torch flat out and the battery goes quickly. The lower modes are where the long runtimes live. The MT20A runs up to 170 hours on low from two AA batteries.
If you want one setting that suits everything, look at a torch with stepless brightness like the MT22C. Twist the ring and stop where you like.
A quick way to choose
- On your keys: a keychain light. You will use it more than any other torch you own.
- Work and trade: a rechargeable torch with the battery in the box, or a headlamp if you need both hands.
- Camping: a lantern for the table and a torch for the track.
- Long range: look at beam distance first, lumens second.
- Blackouts: something that runs on AA batteries. See torch batteries explained.